Tie is the most used accessory by men and essential piece with any sort of suit. If the invitation says dark suit, the tie should be composed, matching the suit color and if possible of gray or blue shade. Naturally, if the type of the event allows, more expressive tie can be chosen as well.
The color of the tie is chosen by the event. Silver-gray fits the particularly festive occasions while in funerals the color is always black. Patterns create prestige and cheer up the look. Stripes represent classic style and club stripes is always the timeless choice. Anyhow, a tie is an accessory which should be chosen by the personality of the wearer.
The white tie is the most formal of men’s dress codes. A black dress coat (evening tailcoat) can be replaced with a black suit, but never with a black dinner jacket. The shirt is a white starched wing collar dress shirt. The front of the shirt should be fastened with removable pearl studs and the pique cuffs should be fastened with golden cufflinks. The end of the cuff should be visible for 1-1,5cm.
The bow tie is always white. It can be pre-tied or hand tied. The tips of the collar are meant to always sit behind the tie.
The waistcoat is usually white. Exceptions are academic events and funerals where the waistcoat is black. The buttons are made out of pearl. The lapels should be seen under the jacket and cover your waist but be careful not to show too much of the lapels.
The pocket square is white and usually made out of cotton. It’s folded square and should be visible as a fine 1cm line out of the pocket. Do not use watch with a white tie, use suspenders to fit the trousers and never use belt.
Wear knee-high black socks and black patent lace up shoes. A black overcoat long enough to cover the tail and white silk scarf can be worn when the weather is cold. Gloves are white.
When you are expected to wear a white tie, the invitation says eg white tie, evening dress or Tenue de Soiree. In Finland frakki is most common word for the white tie. If you are unsure about the dresscode, go ahead and ask the inviter.
The black tie is a dress code for events that start after 6pm. Black dinner jacket can be single-row or two-row. With single-row the double buttons are visible.
The shirt is white with either normal or wing collars. The front has pleating and cuffs are double. The cuffs should be visible for 1-1,5cm.
The black dinner jacket is worn with a waistcoat (or cummerbund) and bow tie. The waistcoat and bow tie must be the same color. The most common color is black, but other colors are also good options. With black accessories, the pocket square is white, but with colored ones make sure to match the pocket square.
Wear the trousers with white suspenders and do not use belt. Knee-high black socks and black patent lace up shoes are a must.
Dark ulster is usually a fitting overcoat accompanied with a white silk scarf. Gloves are white.
When you are excepted to dress according to black tie the invitation says eg Black tie, Tuxedo, Dinner Jacket or Cravate Noir. In Finland smokki is the most common word used for the black tie events. If you are unsure about the dresscode, go ahead and ask the inviter.